Rip currents: how to identify them?

Learn how to identify rip currents and take crucial steps to ensure your safety and others’ while surfing.
As a surfer you will most probably have to face this situation one day: being stuck in a rip current.

What is a rip current?

Rip currents are powerful, narrow channels of fast-moving water that occur at surf beaches. They are the leading cause of rescues by beach lifeguards and can be deadly if not treated with respect. These currents are formed by water that is pushed up the shore by breaking waves and finds a pathway back to the open sea, often through gaps in sandbars or near structures like piers and jetties.

Identifying rip currents

Rip currents can be tricky to spot, but knowing what to look for can be a lifesaver:

• Disrupted wave patterns: Look for areas where waves aren’t breaking consistently.
• Darker, deeper water: Rips often carry sediment out to sea, leaving a deeper, darker-colored channel compared to the surrounding water.
• Foamy or choppy water: Foam and debris moving seaward in a concentrated path can indicate a rip current.
• Anomalies in water movement: Water flowing swiftly away from the shore, especially against incoming waves, is a telltale sign.

Common misconceptions about rip currents

Many myths surround rip currents, leading to unsafe practices:

• Myth: Rip currents pull you under the water.
  Fact: Rips pull you out, not under. Panic from the sensation of being pulled away can cause drowning.
• Myth: Only weak swimmers get caught in rips.
  Fact: Even the strongest swimmers can be overpowered by the strong pull of a rip current.
• Myth: Rips are only found in deep water.
  Fact: They can occur in relatively shallow water, just past the line of breaking waves.

How to React If Caught in a Rip Current

Reacting properly when caught in a rip current can mean the difference between life and death:

1. Stay Calm: Panic increases the risk of drowning. Keep your breathing controlled.
2. Stay on Your Board: Your surfboard is a flotation device and increases your visibility.
3. Float and Signal for Help: Conserve your energy by floating and signal to lifeguards or bystanders by raising one arm.
4. Swim Parallel to the Shore: If you can swim, move parallel to the shore to escape the rip before trying to swim back to the beach.

How to safely help someone in a rip current

If you see someone else caught in a rip, follow these steps:

1. Alert lifeguards: Immediately inform a lifeguard. If no lifeguard is present, call emergency services.
2. Provide floatation: If it’s safe, throw the person a floatation device or a surfboard. Give your board to the person to help him to remain calmer.
3. Guide from the shore: Yell instructions to remain calm and float, guiding them to swim parallel to the shore if they are able.

Never attempt to rescue someone by entering the water yourself unless you are trained in life-saving and equipped for a rescue (with a surfboard).

Preventive measures and safety tips

Prevention is the best approach to handling rip currents:

• Check the surf forecast: Always check local weather conditions and rip current forecasts before heading to the beach.
• Surf in designated areas: Stick to areas monitored by lifeguards and avoid surfing alone.
• Learn about local conditions: Familiarize yourself with the beach’s safety information and potential hazards.